Inside Atlanta’s soul food revolution

From fried chicken to hoisin-glazed oxtail, the city’s most famous comfort food is changing. But its flavours still tell the story of migration and survival in every bite.

In kitchens all over Atlanta, Georgia, ham hocks and collard greens are bubbling in stockpots. Plates piled with fried chicken are being passed; macaroni and cheese is heaped alongside crispy pork chops smothered in gravy.