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Bologna is perhaps the most divisive staple in the American pantry. For millions, it is a nostalgic comfort, the centerpiece of a childhood sandwich or a quick, reliable midnight snack. For others, it is the ultimate “mystery meat,” a food item shrouded in urban legends and whispered warnings about what exactly goes into the grinder. We have all heard the jokes, the grim descriptions of “floor sweepings,” and the persistent myths that suggest this luncheon meat is a repository for everything that didn’t make the cut for higher-quality cuts of beef or pork. But if we move past the social stigma and the schoolyard rumors, we find that the truth about bologna is far more clinical, industrial, and—in many ways—more fascinating than the horror stories we tell ourselves.
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